In most cases rocks should be embedded well down in the soil.
Cascades, waterfalls, grottoes, etc., are best built up with the aid
if cement. Stones should be placed in relationship and in proportion to one another and form pockets or clefts in which the different plants are to grow.
TYPES OF STONE AND ROCK
Porous rocks are most useful where one wants the plants to
grow partly over and around the rock forms, or apparently growing on the rock itself.
Solid, non-porous rocks, and hard flints, although of significant
use in the Japanese garden are, in naturalistic gardens, more
useful for representing isolated barren peaks and crags.
Tufa is an admirable porous rock with a cellular composition
rather like pumice or sponge, and plants that favour lime attach
themselves to it with great affection. Its one disadvantage is that
in industrial or smoky atmospheres it absorbs smuts and "smog"
very quickly.
Limestone is excellent for most alpine and rock plants, the
best varieties coming from Westmorland, Derbyshire and Yorkshire. It can be either waterworn (suitable for bolder, block
effects), or weatherworn (preferable for the smaller touches).
Sandstone, light brown in colour, is also excellent, and associates more favourably with plants that are allergic to lime. It is
fairly easy to construct stratified effects with slab pieces of sandstone. Some varieties, however, tend to be adversely affected by
hard frost.
FILLING THE DISH GARDEN
The best type of dish or bowl for a minigarden is one of porous
earthenware; a deep earthenware baking dish is excellent. It is
preferable that any dish to be used should not have a glazed
surface, although this cannot always be avoided where outward
appearance is important. Earthenware dishes can sometimes be
arranged to fit inside a decorative container. Tin trays and
cooking pans have frequently been used but are not recommended.
The ideal small container will have a drainage hole, and in
such cases it is filled in the manner already described. Unfortulately, a drain hole is not always possible and it is necessary to
fill the dish somewhat differently so that surplus water is absorbed
and does not stagnate in the bottom.
The bottom of the dish is first covered with a thick layer of
charcoal. This can be 1 inch deep for a small dish and up to
2 inches deep for a large one. The drainage layer of crocks or
chippings is then laid above the charcoal. A very light layer of
horticultural peat or leaf mould can be spread over this if it can
conveniently be done; it is not absolutely necessary but is certainly
recommended. Finally, the foundation is covered with a good
right compost for planting as already described, finishing off with
dressing where required.
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