COMPOST
Although perhaps a little more costly and troublesome, it is
well worth using a specially-mixed compost, particularly if you
are using any fairly expensive plants. This can be bought ready
for use or you can mix it to suit your own ideas. Local park
superintendents and the nurserymen from whom you buy your
plants can be extremely helpful in recommending a suitable
formula or mixture.
A typical basic formula might be three parts sterilized soil,
one part coarse sand (preferably silver) and one part of granulated horticultural peat. Be careful not to use ordinary natural
peat as this often has a high acid content. All the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed and are then sifted through a fine-meshed
riddle.
The proportions of the mixture are adjusted according to the
plants used and other ingredients such as hydrated lime, grit,
fertilizer, etc., can be added for the same purpose. Your nurseryman will advise you. There will be some degree of "trial and
error" for the ambitious gardener but this adds to the interest.
FILLING THE GARDEN
Your prepared soil or compost is now placed in a substantial
layer (C, Fig. 26) over the peat, then sprinkled with water and
rammed down firmly.
The next layer (D) is the "operational" layer in which the
rocks and plants are set. The same soil mixture is used and is
well firmed down as the "building operations" proceed. The
soil will probably subside a little in the first week or so and this
should be made good.
The methods of "building" are described in the next chapter.
TOP DRESSING
When D is completed a light top dressing of bone meal is dusted
over the surface (E), and finally a sprinkling of clean, very fine
chippings (preferably granite or limestone). The latter will help
to prevent erosion by wind, etc., and provide a kind of collar to
keep the underleaves of plants from damp soil, which is harmful
to many types of alpines.
ROCK FORMS
Stones and rocks are used in a wide range of garden design
styles, such as alpine gardens, Japanese variations, terracing,
natural gardens, rock wall and sunk gardens, cascades, islands,
landscape, formal, etc. Placing, position and type depends very
much on the overall design in mind. Sometimes the rocks should
be of the same material and of similar formations. Sometimes
more than one type is used to reproduce a stratified aspect, etc.
The chapters on Garden Design and Japanese Gardens and the
photographs suggest numerous treatments.
Many Japanese gardeners, loyal to ancient traditions, regard
stones as the bones forming the skeleton of the garden, and all
other features are used as settings which focus these centres of
interest. This underlying thought suggests a helpful approach.
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